雙語|8款風靡一時的牛仔褲 都是怎麼流行起來的?
The acid washing process has its roots in 1960s surf culture. According to CRFashionBook, the trend really took off in the 1980s, after Guess released “the first pair of ‘pre-washed’ bleach-splattered jeans.”
酸洗牛仔褲源於20世紀60年代的衝浪文化。據時尚雜誌《CR》稱,這款褲子是在20世紀80年代蓋爾斯品牌推出了“第一條被洗出漂白斑塊的牛仔褲”後真正流行起來的。
2. MOM JEANS 老媽牛仔褲
Just the term mom jeans conjures up an image of high-waisted rigid denim jeans with straight (but not tight!) legs. Supposedly, the high waist was meant to cover the tummy and prevent it from spilling over the top of the jeans, creating the dreaded muffin top—but usually, all it did was accentuate any visible fat and make you look frumpy to boot.
單是老媽牛仔褲這個名稱就足以讓人在腦海裡浮現出硬挺的高腰直筒(非緊身)牛仔褲的畫面。按理來說,高腰褲本意是遮住小肚子,防止討厭的腰部贅肉堆在褲頭上,但這種褲子卻往往突出贅肉,還讓你顯得很土氣。
muffin top: 腰部贅肉
to boot: 再者;除此以外
According to Emma McClendon, a fashion historian and the author of Denim: Fashion’s Frontier, “In the history of jeans as a garment, that high-rise, straight-leg, no-stretch-denim [template] is actually very typical.” That basic shape endured into the 1960s. The term mom jeans didn't become popular until 2003 (a.k.a., the era of super stretchy low-rise jeans) thanks to a Saturday Night Live sketch.
《牛仔褲:時尚先驅》的作者、時尚歷史學家愛瑪·麥克倫登指出:“無彈力的高腰直筒牛仔褲其實在服裝史上一直是基本款。”這種款式到了20世紀60年代還很常見。老媽牛仔褲這一叫法是到2003年(超彈力低腰牛仔褲的時代)才流行起來的,這得感謝《週六夜現場》的一出短劇。
3. JNCO JEANS 闊腿牛仔褲
These ultra-wide, baggy pants featured briefly in the ‘90s teen movie Clueless as the signature look for skater guys—which was exactly who they appealed to at first, before they became so popular that they could be found pretty much everywhere. The jeans debuted in 1993 and eventually boasted leg openings up to 50 inches. After becoming incredibly popular in the '90s and then falling out of favor, JNCOs have been revived several times.
褲腿超寬的牛仔褲曾是上世紀90年代的青少年電影《獨領風騷》中滑板少年的標誌性裝扮,這款牛仔褲最開始吸引的也是滑板少年,後來變得非常流行,簡直隨處可見。闊腿牛仔褲於1993年推出,後來褲腿設計得越來越寬,最後居然達到了50英寸(127釐米)。上世紀90年代,闊腿牛仔褲風靡一時,後來就逐漸失寵,之後闊腿褲潮流又屢次復興。
4. SUPER-RIPPED JEANS 破洞牛仔褲
The first pairs of ripped jeans probably happened from actual wear and tear, and some have suggested that the trend of ripped jeans originated in the 1970s with punk bands. But eventually, the trend went way off the rails: Jeans with slashes up and down the legs could be bought new, often for exorbitant prices. Sometimes the tears went beyond rips to become full-on holes in the jeans.
第一條破洞牛仔褲很可能是穿久了磨破的,有些人指出,破洞牛仔褲的潮流源於上世紀70年代的朋克樂隊。但後來這一潮流玩過頭了,人們甚至會花高昂的價格去買一條從上裂到下的新牛仔褲。有的破洞牛仔褲上不止是有裂口,而是有大窟窿。
5. BELLBOTTOMS 喇叭牛仔褲
Bellbottoms may date as far back at the 17th or 18th centuries, when they were worn by sailors on American Navy ships (where they were eventually phased out in the years after World War II). Bellbottoms rose to prominence among youth of the 1960s as an act of rebellion.
喇叭牛仔褲或許可以追溯到17或18世紀,那時候美國軍艦的海員就穿這種褲子(二戰結束後喇叭褲逐漸被淘汰)。上世紀60年代,年輕人開始流行穿喇叭牛仔褲來表達自己的反叛。
6. DENIM STIRRUP PANTS 馬鐙牛仔褲
It's likely that stirrup pants originated in jodhpurs, which were worn during horseback riding; those little pieces of fabric, and later elastic, were added in the 20th century. In the '80s, stirrup pants became a bonafide fashion trend, eventually being made in bright colors and denim.
馬鐙牛仔褲很可能起源於騎馬褲,原本是在馬背上穿的,20世紀開始在布料里加入彈性纖維。上世紀80年代,馬鐙褲真正開始流行起來,並改用顏色明亮的牛仔布製作。
7. DENIM HOT PANTS 牛仔熱褲
Denim hot pants are an extreme form of jean shorts where cheek coverage seems to be optional. According to CRFashionBook, the trend began with "short shorts" in the 1950s; then, at the end of the '60s, British designer Mary Quant designed hot pants. They had an inseam of a mere two inches. Hot pants were made from a variety of fabrics, including denim, and were worn by men and women alike.
牛仔熱褲是一種超短的牛仔褲,你想多短就有多短。據時尚雜誌《CR》稱,這一潮流始於20世紀50年代的“超短褲”,後來在60年代末,英國設計師瑪麗·匡特設計出了熱褲。這款熱褲的內接縫只有2英寸(5釐米)長。熱褲用包括牛仔布在內的各種布料製成,男女皆可穿。
8. PLEATED JEANS 皺褶牛仔褲
Originally, according to Max Berlinger at Bloomberg, pleats in pants were "a practical design feature to increase comfort at the hip." The denim version of pleated pants became especially popular in the 1980s. Pleated jeans are making a comeback recently.
據彭博社的馬克斯·柏林傑介紹,在過去長褲上的皺褶是“一種實用的設計特點,以增加臀部區域的舒適度”。20世紀80年代皺褶牛仔褲變得特別流行,近來也有復興的跡象。